Hesh, that will certainly work.
But here's a pic of how I do mine:
You might just be able to see the caul under all those clamps. It has arched "feet", or runners that bear on the edges of the board.
Steve
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| Author: | Steve Kinnaird [ Wed Nov 22, 2006 2:11 am ] |
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Hesh, that will certainly work. But here's a pic of how I do mine:
You might just be able to see the caul under all those clamps. It has arched "feet", or runners that bear on the edges of the board. Steve |
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| Author: | Mark Tripp [ Wed Nov 22, 2006 2:15 am ] |
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Just like Steve - Am working on a *foolproof* indexing jig to supplant my current use of brads embedded in the neck. -Mark |
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| Author: | Andy Zimmerman [ Wed Nov 22, 2006 2:23 am ] |
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Hesh I do it exactly the same way.... No problems so far!!!! |
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| Author: | Roy O [ Wed Nov 22, 2006 2:42 am ] |
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Hesh, That looks like one monster rubberband you're using. Where do you get that and have you ever had a problem with it breaking when stretched taunt like that? I use clamps like Steve does. |
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| Author: | David Collins [ Wed Nov 22, 2006 2:48 am ] |
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I think it's very important to have a rigid caul to clamp against to keep the neck as straight as possible. Even then depending on the glue you are using the caul may best be slightly curved to compensate for moisture swelling, and give you the final shape you want. This of course takes a bit of testing to determine the shape of the caul, but can give very good results. I would be quite worried about inconsistancies when glueing it up without being held against any stable caul. |
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| Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Wed Nov 22, 2006 2:50 am ] |
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I use these clamps. 6 of them and a cam clamp at the heel. 
By the way you can get them cheaper at Walmart than at StewMac or LMI. Look for them in RV section of Automotive department |
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| Author: | Colin S [ Wed Nov 22, 2006 2:50 am ] |
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Hesh I used to do it just like you, using neoprene surgical tubing to wrap it with. We always used this method when bedding a rifle action, and I just transferrred it to the guitar. The last one I did though I used the Stew Mac clamps,and I must say that they made the glue clearup much easier and they worked really well at centreing the board if you don't use cut off staples. I also use a full length caul slightly narrower than the fingerboard to even out the pressure. Fingerboard clamps Colin Michael must have posted at the same time! 
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| Author: | Alain Desforges [ Wed Nov 22, 2006 2:51 am ] |
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I use mini registration pins and then a straight caul. I really like Steve's idea of having the little runners applying pressure on the edges though... I guess it's jig update/improvement time! Thanks Steve!!! 
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| Author: | old man [ Wed Nov 22, 2006 3:02 am ] |
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I use my Stew-Mac FB radius sanding caul and three or four clamps. VERY easy. Ron |
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| Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Wed Nov 22, 2006 3:04 am ] |
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[QUOTE=Colin S] Michael must have posted at the same time!
[/QUOTE] Don't tell any one but I have Serge typing for me 
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| Author: | Tom Armstrong [ Wed Nov 22, 2006 4:35 am ] |
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Every time I log on I see a new method that that intrigues me. Thanks Michael P. |
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| Author: | Marc [ Wed Nov 22, 2006 4:40 am ] |
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Pins, Caul, Clamps 
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| Author: | Alain Desforges [ Wed Nov 22, 2006 4:49 am ] |
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Roy, you can get surgical tubing like that from Lee Valley. I think the length is something around 25 ft. It's extremelly flexible and giving and I like using mine to glue on the back and top to the plates. I've pulled and tightened mine quite a bit and it's very resilient. You can check it out here. Hope this helps. |
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| Author: | Steve Kinnaird [ Wed Nov 22, 2006 4:52 am ] |
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Hesh, I hear David's concerns. What I do is use epoxy, out of concern (perhaps undue--see a much earlier discussion) over introducing unneeded moisture. Also, there are some register pins in all that conglomeration. They pass from the neck, through the fb, and through the caul. When the glue sets, I pull those little guys out--so's as not to have them permanently installed in the assembly. One more thing--I glue this on while the neck is still square, and then when cured, the whole schmere is shaped...the neck being brought down to the taper of the fb. Sorry---too many words! 
SK |
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| Author: | Bill Greene [ Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:04 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Hesh: On the advice of my teacher, when I glued my fretboard on I did exactly what you used to do, which was introduce a bit of forward bow into the neck, thinking that the frets would even it out...and it did almost perfectly. I don't know "how much" sanding and slot deepening that may have eliminated, but I did intend to do it again next time. I wonder how many others do this? Anybody else want to chime in on whether or not that makes any significant difference? I would be appreciative. Bill |
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| Author: | Homeboy [ Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:07 am ] |
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Steve, I glue on my FB when the neck is square as well. It gives me a line to carve towards. I also use pins to register the FB to the neck, but I don't pull them out. I just make sure that they will sit below the fret tang and leave them in. I also use a straight caul and some cam clamps and C clamps. I do think, however, that I have been leaving my Fingerboards too thick. Maybe it does not matter. We shall see. Homeboy |
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| Author: | Sam Price [ Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:14 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Hesh!! I had those elastic bands, and BOY they're long! Trouble is, I burst a tube of CA glue over them and rendered them useless... ....so I went to my local Pharmacy, bought these 
and some baking paper, glued my fretboard in the same manner as you have done And it WORKED!!!!! |
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| Author: | Dave White [ Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:35 am ] |
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Does anybody that uses twin CF rods each side of the truss-rod use the pinning method? I've been trying to work out where to pin - if you go outside the cf rods then you can't go very deep if you want a shallow neck profile carved afterwards. |
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| Author: | Jim Watts [ Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:58 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I glue mine on like Steve and also use epoxy for the smae reason. Dave- I use the pin method and 2 CF rods. I use 2 pins, one at the first fret and one at the 13th fret. At the 13th fret I can easily avoid the carbon due to the thickness of the heel. At the 1st fret I just go into the CF. It works fine. |
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| Author: | David Collins [ Wed Nov 22, 2006 9:56 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Epoxy does address the moisture issue, but epoxies generally have about the lowest heat resistance among adhesives. Of course a guitar should never be left in the trunk of a car on a hot sunny day, but it would be at high risk of creeping if a traveling musician made that mistake. I'm sure there are specialty epoxies made for high heat resistance, but most of them start to soften around 140F. |
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| Author: | Jim Watts [ Wed Nov 22, 2006 10:42 am ] |
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I had a customer who left a guitar I'd built for him in the back of a hatchback on a hot summer day in a black case. The guitar got so hot that the nitro finish blisterd up very badly, but the fingerboard which was glued with epoxy held just fine. It was probably System 3 T88 epoxy, not sure though as it's been a few years, could of been Smiths. |
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| Author: | Billy T [ Wed Nov 22, 2006 1:45 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
In a pinch you could always loop shorter rubber bands together to get the length! You could probably go spanish style with ropes too! Clamps seem about the fastest and safest though! |
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| Author: | Jim Watts [ Wed Nov 22, 2006 1:57 pm ] |
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Surgical tubing works also. |
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